Tourist information -
Perpignan
This far south, climate and geography alone would
ensure a palpable Spanish influence. But more than this, a good
part of Perpignan's population is of Spanish origin - refugees from
the Civil War and their descendants. The southern influence is further
augmented by a substantial admixture of North Africans, including
both Arabs and white French settlers repatriated after Algerian
independence in 1962.
While there are few memorable monuments to visit, Perpignan is
a pleasant city with a lively street life. Its heyday was in the
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when the kings of Majorca held
their court here, and it is from this period that most of its historical
interest derives. Well placed on the main Mediterranean coast international
lines of communication, it is much the best base for exploring the
eastern end of the Pyrenees, and the Cathar castles of the Corbières
The best place to begin your exploration of Perpignan is at Le
Castillet , built as a gateway in the fourteenth century and now
home to the Casa Pairal (daily except Tues: mid-June to mid-Sept
9.30am-7pm; rest of year 9am-6pm;), an interesting museum of Roussillon's
Catalan folk culture, featuring religious art, agricultural and
pastoral exposés, and all sorts of local crafts. From the
roof there is a great view of the dominant pile of Canigou, while
to the northwest you may be able to pick out the Château de
Quéribus , standing clear of its ridge. A short distance
down rue Louis-Blanc you come to the place de la Loge , focus of
the renovated and pedestrianized heart of the old town. Dominating
the cafés and brasseries of the narrow square is Perpignan's
most interesting building, the Gothic Loge de Mer . Designed to
hold the city's stock exchange and maritime court, and decorated
with gargoyles and lacy balustrades, its ground floor has been taken
over by an incongruous fast-food joint. Side by side next door are
the Hôtel de Ville , with its magnificent wrought-iron gates
and Maillol's statue of La Méditerranée in the courtyard,
and the fifteenth-century Palais de la Députation , once
the parliament of Roussillon.
From place de la Loge, rue St-Jean runs down to the fourteenth-century
Cathédrale St-Jean on place Gambetta (Mon & Wed-Sat 10am-noon
& 2-5pm, Tues & Sun 2-5pm), its external walls built of
bands of river stones sandwiched by brick. The interior is most
interesting for its elaborate Catalan altarpieces, shadowy in the
gloom of the dimly lit nave, and for the tortured wooden crucifix,
known as the Dévôt Christ , in a side chapel to the
south. Dating from around 1400, it's of Rhenish origin and was probably
brought back from the Low Countries by a travelling merchant. Past
the chapel, on the left is the entrance to the Campo Santo , one
of France's oldest cemeteries, dating back some 600 years.
From the cathedral, rue de la Révolution-Française
and rue de l'Anguille lead into the close, dilapidated maze of the
Arab and Romany quarter , where women congregate on the secluded
inner lanes but are seldom seen on the more public thoroughfares.
Here there are North African shops and cafés, especially
on rue Lucia, and a daily market on place Cassanyes . At the heart
of the quarter, the wide and grimy place du Puig is overlooked by
a Vauban barracks converted into public housing. Just past it, at
the top of a shady uphill street, is the elegant Catalan church
of St-Jacques , dating from around 1200, on the edge of La Miranda
gardens (July & Aug 8am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm; rest of year
8am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm), laid out on a section of the old city
walls. It is from this church that the Procession de la Sanch sets
out on Maundy (Holy) Thursday.
A twenty-minute walk away through place des Esplanades, crowning
the hill that dominates the southern part of the old town, is the
Palais des Rois de Majorque (daily: June-Sept 10am-6pm; rest of
year 9am-5pm;). Although Vauban's walls surround it now, the two-storey
palace and its great arcaded courtyard date originally from the
late thirteenth century. Thanks to the Spanish-Moorish influence,
there's a sophistication and finesse about the architecture and
detailing - for instance in the beautiful marble porch to the lower
of the two chapels - that you don't often find in the heavier styles
of the north.
Finally, at 16 rue de l'Ange near place Arago,
you'll find Perpignan's museum of art, the Musée Rigaud (Wed-Sun
noon-7pm;), dedicated to the work of the locally born portraitist
Hyacinthe Rigaud, who became official painter to the court of Versailles
in the early eighteenth century. The collection also includes works
by Dufy, Maillol, Picasso, Tapiès, Appel and others.
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