Tourist information -
Toulouse
Toulouse, with its beautiful historic centre, is
one of the most vibrant and metropolitan provincial cities in France.
This is a transformation that has come about since the war, under
the guidance of the French state, which has poured in money to make
Toulouse the think-tank of high-tech industry and a sort of premier
trans-national Euroville. Always an aviation centre - St-Exupéry
and Mermoz flew out from here on their pioneering airmail flights
over Africa and the Atlantic in the 1920s - Toulouse is now home
to Aérospatiale, the driving force behind Concorde, Airbus
and the Ariane space rocket. The national Space Centre, the European
shuttle programme, the leading aeronautical schools, the frontier-pushing
electronics industry... it's all happening in Toulouse, whose 110,000
students make it second only to Paris as a university centre. But
it's not to the burgeoning suburbs of factories, labs, shopping
and housing complexes that all these people go for their entertainment,
but to the old Ville Rose - pink not only in its brickwork, but
also in its politics.
This is not the first flush of pre-eminence for Toulouse. From
the tenth to the thirteenth centuries the counts of Toulouse controlled
much of southern France. They maintained the most resplendent court
in the land, renowned especially for its troubadours, the poets
of courtly love, whose work influenced Petrarch, Dante and Chaucer
and thus the whole course of European poetry. Until, that is, the
arrival of the hungry northern French nobles of the Albigensian
Crusade; in 1271 Toulouse became crown property
The part of the city you'll want to see forms a rough hexagon clamped
round a bend in the wide, brown River Garonne and contained in a
ring of inner nineteenth-century boulevards - Strasbourg, Carnot,
Jules-Guesde and others. An outer ring enclosing these is formed
by the Canal du Midi, which here joins the Garonne on its way from
the Mediterranean to the Atlantic.
Old Toulouse is effectively quartered by two nineteenth-century
streets: the long shopping street, rue d'Alsace-Lorraine/rue du
Languedoc , which runs north-south; and rue de Metz , which runs
east-west onto the Pont-Neuf and across the Garonne. It is all very
compact and easily walkable.
In addition to the general pleasure of wandering the streets, there
are three very good museums and some real architectural treasures
in the churches of St-Sernin and Les Jacobins and in the magnificent
Renaissance town houses - hôtels particuliers - of the merchants
who grew rich on the woad-dye trade. This formed the basis of the
city's economy from the mid-fifteenth to the mid-sixteenth century,
when the arrival of indigo from the Indian colonies wiped it out.
Place du Capitole is the centre of gravity for the city's social
life. Its smart cafés throng with people at lunchtime and
in the early evening when the dying sun flushes the pink facade
of the big town hall opposite. This is the scene of a mammoth Wednesday
market for food, clothes and junk, and of a smaller organic foods
market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. From place du Capitole,
a labyrinth of narrow medieval streets radiates out to the town's
several other squares, such as place Wilson, the more intimate place
St-Georges, the delightful triangular place de la Trinité
and place St-étienne in front of the cathedral.
For green space, you have to head for the sunny banks of the Garonne
or the lovely formal gardens of the Grand-Rond and Jardin des Plantes
in the southeast corner of the centre. A less obvious but attractive
alternative is the towpath of the Canal du Midi; the best place
to join it is a short walk southeast of the Jardin des Plantes,
by the neo-Moorish pavilion of the Georges-Labit museum , which
houses a good collection of Egyptian and Oriental art.
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